July 27 - SS Atlantic Vision

The novelty of a dirt road wears off quickly (unless youre jason). Certainly before 15 miles of looking for the least wash-boarded part of the road. Thats right - numbered road 91, the road between the south coast and the ferry is dirt. Aint so bad. For 10 miles before dirt, on 93, saw literallly zero cars. Then into placentia where basques fished in 1500s, then french, then brits. Now (relatvely) lots of newer/nicer homes. Got new charger cords (no comments please from my friends who leave things on hotel rooms all the time) and some screech, and then one last climb over to ferry in argentia. Horns down.  A good last day, next stop https://bikearoundpei.blogspot.com/ 36 miles, 824 total.

July 26 - Mt Carmel

Foggy start, heading mostly west, then north hugging the coves, sunny across peninsulas. Winds lighter (in the morning?) In the barrens today, no sign of the 3000 caribou that supposedly live here. Nice riding (with tailwind!) On quiet roads with cool temps to lunch in st marys (only resto all day). Several 'st' towns here on the irish loop. More tailwinds after lunch - makes a huge difference. Two weird things today - Phone picked up miquelon time zone (+30 min) for some reason, and met two other cyclists who were not friendly, probably as they were from ontario and just on a 3 day tour. Last night in Newfoundland, staying in a 4 pillow former convent (btw lots of Anglican churches here) 60 miles

July 25 - Trepassey

Turning Newfoundland's bottom right corner and heading west for the first time, along Southern shore of Avalon peninsula, essentially going around a 1000 sqkm wilderness reserve, which newfies call the barrens. Few communities/services here, some houses and history in the coves goes back to 1500s (or before?), even the mayflower landed here in Renews to resupply. Hydro and wind turbines down here too - another checkmark for post climate change apocalypse. Slow riding today - fewer hills but just trying to imprint feeling of freedom on open road, nobody knowing where i am. Met another touring cyclist, who rode here from Montreal via labrador, commiserated about the winds. Afternoon felt like the prairies- gently rolling, no trees and strong winds (obviously theme of the day). Along south shore, checked out mistaken point ecological reserve (fossils) and a battery from 1776 to protect against American "privateers".  Cool sign from govt of Newfoundland,  obviously from the time when it was a separate country. Cape Race is the closest north american point on the historical sailing route, so lots of history/shipwrecks (1st telegraph from sinking titanic received here, Amelia earhart left from here for london). Staying at 3 pillow edge of the avalon inn. 44 mikes.

July 24 - Ferryland

Rain overnight but done by 8am so still havent had to ride in raincoat. After a few km on Waterford river trail, turned south into the wind on 10, my route for next few days. Slow steady climb by farms and woods, and had to take rain/coffee break. Some killer down/ups to bay bulls, witless bay (puffin capital of north america), mobile, tors cove and cape broyle- this road definitely has steeper grades than t-can and Newfie place names are definitely unique. Given the choice between 3-5% uphill and 10-15mph headwind, well - i didnt get to choose. I had both often simultaneously. Into Ferryland, another must see spot in Newfoundland, for food resupply and steak to cook for dinner. Staying at airbnb in Aquaforte by the water. 50 miles.

July 22, 23 - St John's

Most viking expeditions end with some fatalities. We had none, and no arrests. Phew. Started in the fog, then made the last turn east onto the t-can. Flatter here (still climbs up to 500') and still zero services, but a few more communities and exits. Overall, if you can ride with fast traffic closeby, its good riding. Clean, wide shoulder; probably under 5km of the whole thing necessitated crossing into travel lane. Took the 80 for lunch by the water in holyrood, then got hot/hilly so found a (3 station!) Viking spa. And a milkshake. Nice finish along crushed stone t-railway into big city, streets closed off for bars and music scene.  Sushi dinner overlooking harbor, then partying till 3am...64 miles. Garmin says 2200 feet climbing for the day, but no way thats right.  

Sunday sadly packed up the bike, and sadly put Jean in taxi to go home. Then visited Signal Hill (much french-english and WW2 history, 1st transatlantic radio signal, cool flag system to notify shipping companies of inbound vessels) and quidi vidi area cause that's what tourists do. Went to the unmarked end of the t-can too. Saw Oppenheimer and picnic in the backyard show at the cathedral. Nice day off (except Jean leaving). St john's actually very neat city - history back to 1497, a funky music scene, colorfully painted houses and strategic/working port.  16 miles.

July 21 - Dildo

Fog, mist: Viking weather, horns up. Another slow morning and our gear starting to get pretty toxic - gotta find laundry. Biked around fishing village of Arnold's cove then crossed the isthmus in/out of the fog onto avalon peninsula. Some tundra looking terrain, then cool detour along 201 to bellevue beach on Atlantic side, for lunch and beach nap. Up and down most of the day, road busier as we near st john's. Milkshakes at a&w before the dildo cutoff, 8 miles off the t-can to stay in dildo. Couldnt pass that up. Dinner on the patio at dildo brewing. Sone more newfie-isms: May month, fly bites, community. 50 miles.  

July 20 - Arnolds Cove

Having crossed over into eastern Newfoundland yesterday, we're now seeing more salt water, randomly named coves, sounds, bays or arms. And birch trees outnumbering the pines. Clouds and cooler temps to start and a shorter day, so chatted with Elsie over breakfast, jean caught up on email. Newfies dont like climate change either - their winters are getting less snowy/cold, so ponds dont reliably freeze for snowmobiles. 20 miles up and down to clarenville, a&w smoothies for lunch. Headwind as we head south and appreciating the cloudy skies, temps around 70, feeling strong. Great views of the bays, coming in from the Atlantic. Made the mistake of looking in jeans water bottle, thinking of turning it over to the wuhan virus lab. Ocean fog and viking temps on arrival, staying at a place that houses many refinery and shipyard workers. 52 miles.